26 February 2008

Racing to Villa O'Higgins

The roads lately have been quite difficult. There are few services between towns and I think it's been 3 days since I've had a proper shower with few perhaps a week to go before the next opportunity. We have to catch a ferry in Villa O'Higgins on Saturday, or we wait a week, which is not an option. After the ferry, load up on donkey or horse and walk south toward Mt. Fitz Roy. This is going to be a highlight of the trip, so I'm getting more excited by the day even though my butt thinks the opposite.

Along the way, there is maybe one place to get food in the 230km between here (Cochrane) and O'Higgins. After I get off this computer, I'm off to the supermarket to stock up. At least our only expense is food since we ride until 830pm and stop wherever we may be at the time.

The lake route along Lago General Carrera was some of the most stunning scenery of the trip so far, there really isn't anything I could compare it to. However, at the same time it was a series of useless climbs. Let me define: travel say 50km in which the elevation is the same at the end as it was in the beginning, but climb a total of 1200+ meters during the ride. That is what I call useless climbing, up and down, up and down. When combined with loose gravel, steep roads, and 30(?more?) kmph headwinds in which I struggle at 4 kmph uphill sometimes pushing the bike because the roads are unridable so, well, it's not the easiest road. I actually had my first legitimate crash too while descending one road, but thankfully I unclipped and landing on my feet running down the hill while my bike, bags rather, didn't fare as well.

And by the way, the Chilean civil engineers and maintenance workers responsible for the roads can go screw themselves along with the SUV and truck drivers who drive too fast and create the shit in the road in the first place.

Ok, I forgot about the other things I wanted to mention. We're still in a rush to push 70-80km per day, which means another 50-60 to go with who knows how many useless climbs ahead.

I appreciate everyone's comments so far and encouragement, it helps me along this difficult section.

22 February 2008

Winds, Glaciers, and Israeli Hitchhikers

Apologies for not updating sooner, more often, and with pictures this time. Unfortunately, time is something that is a precious commodity down here, there's always too much to do and not enough waking hours to do it in.

We are traveling through Patagonia, a region full of wet jungles, more snow-capped mountains with the occasional glacier, and plenty of small and large falls that we drink from (the water really is delicious). There are fjords like in Norway, and there isn't a single moment in which my neck isn't contorted in some way to look up or behind me at the mountains, or down at the nasty ripio, haha.

I'm writing right now from Coyhaique, which is the capital of the region. We hope to be in Villa O'Higgins on Feb 29, so we can take a ferry south (the road ends there) on Mar 1. Upon exiting the ferry, we load up the gear on horses and traverse a difficult 20km section of land (didn't feel like pushing the bike for 5 hrs like other bikers we've met going north have done).

I also mention the Israelis because there are tons of them down here, traveling after their military service. In every town and on the road in between, we find multiple groups, not just multiple people. It really is surprising, but at least they know English so we can talk to them!

The next few days should be good weather for us, so the traveling will be more or less ok, Carretera Austral ripio aside, of course. If anyone has a chance, I would highly recommend renting a truck (note: not a car) and traveling south on the Carretera Austral.

I'm 3 min late getting to the other riding partners, so gotta run!