Mapuche Holy Ground - Volcan Lanin

The road back into Argentina was not unlike those traveled in Argentina, but there were certainly more forests. As expected, the Conguillio National Park was still closed, so it was back south and east for us. Right before the pass at Icalma, we saw the first of many lakes to come at the north of the Lake District. In a way, it reminded me a bit of Lake Tahoe with the deep blue water, cabins, and mountainous area. I just wish they had the roads like California does! The pass was only 3km, thank god. Those were 3km of steep ripio, which I didn't take too kindly too. However, 10 minutes of riding for 1km of distance isn't bad. Coming up, it really felt like I was in Cambodia/Laos/Vietnam with the hills that were surrounding us. You can see Joe creeping up just behind me. With my flyweight body and 20 few years of age, I climb a little faster than he does.

The Argentinians, I love them. Once again, people were waving and honking at us, and border guards really didn't care what we carried. Conversation is as follows: Passports...anything to declare? Nope. Ok, suerte! Gracias, ciao! We camped at Lago Alumine, which was so beautiful that Joe asked me in the morning if we really had to leave. Yes, that is my tent and bike at the lake front during sunset. Ah, life can be good sometimes.

The road from Villa Pehuenia to Alumine was a bit of asphalto, a bit of ripio, but mostly along a river valley that made for the most part a pleasant ride. It was only a 60km day or so, very pleasant. At one point while still near the lake, we passed by some guys butchering a cow on the side of the road! It's a common custom for the Argentinians to chill out over BBQ with a gigantic slab of meat, enough to feed an entire family. I didn't know, however, that they'd do the whole animal! Kidding, but when you have cows in such abundance that they sometimes even walk along the beach, why not!? Right?

The following day, Joe and I split up. Markus was still visiting with his cousins in Los Angeles, Chile, (as we had just learned), Aaron was a day or two ahead, and I wanted to push to the base of Volcano Lanin, where there was another national park. I took off and had a very long 130km day in front of me...

I made some good time on the asphalto, and the ripio wasn't too bad. I stopped when I saw a tandem bicycle parked on the side of the road, loaded with panniers. Where are the cyclists? I looked over and saw this woman calling out to me from high up in a tree! What is she doing there? Picking cherries, that's what. She and her husband were Germans biking from Ushuaia to Mendoza, exactly the leg that we're doing in the opposite direction. They gave me some cherries in exchange for information, and oh my god they were the most delicious and juiciest cherries I have ever put into my mouth. They mentioned some of the winds in Ushuaia region at one point reached 130kmph, which is about 80mph. Of course, for them, it was a headwind. Push the bike a few meters, rest, repeat. Usually they are more on the order of 50-60kmph if they are blowing. In any case, it will be a tailwind for us, so I'm excited!

After we parted ways, the ripio got bad, and the climb started. It was deceptive because every turn that I thought was the top turned out to be only one of the many, and long switchbacks I had to contend with. I really could not go more than 7-8kmph, much lower than my normal 10kmph uphill speed, or 15kmph ripio speed, or 20+kmph asphalto speed. It completely screwed up my day. When I was beginning to get frustrated, Jesus descended upon me with a motorcycle covered in stickers of Che Guevarra (sp?) and his boyfriend. He said there wasn't much more to the hill, so I pressed on reluctantly. He was right! But near the top, it started to rain. I pulled over and spent some more time on the side of the road, eating under a gigantic tree while waiting for the storm to pass. Maybe this 130km day wasn't the best idea...

The downhill was perhaps worse than the uphill. The ripio was UGLY. I fell while braking at one point, and again hurt my elbow and knee in the exact same spot as before! That really pissed me off, especially because I was preparing to take video to show everyone. I'll post it one of these days, perhaps when the internet connection is a little faster, just to give you an idea of what it was like going down. Think - not fun, at all.

Reaching the end of the ripio, I found the asphalto road and saw for the first time my target - Volcano Lanin. It was already around 7pm, with 2.5-3 hrs of daylight left, and 40km to cover. I was going to do it, it just looked too inviting. I pedaled in a race against time, rather race against the sun. Get to campsight before it descended. I took a small break to filter water at the river and clean my wounds, perhaps it wasn't the best choice. The time went by quickly as I got closer and closer. Finally, I approached the park entrance. A couple coming out stopped and asked if I needed water or food, and if I knew where I was going. Apparently, there was no campsight as I thought, and the ripio was as bad as it gets because of the serrucho conditions. Apparently the husband was a cyclist who participated in races, which would explain their kindness to me. They wished me luck, and I pressed on. I think I got about 4km into the park, with another 8 or 9 to go to the lake before I had to just stop and camp, illegally might I add. But, almost nobody was there, and I wasn't going to make a mess, so why not? My efforts were rewarded with an incredible sunset right behind Volcano Lanin, which attracted a local thunderstorm that night.

The morning ride out into the valley fog was stunning. I had set the alarm to be on the road before sunrise so I wouldn't get caught by any park agents, haha. It was cold and I had on between 2 and 4 layers, but absolutely worth the cost in sleep I gave up. I had only 60km to go before reaching Junin de Los Andes, where I would find Joe, and perhaps Aaron as well. The ride passed by quickly, and I was in town before noon. Just like on the 4K, time for A.M. ale! Try Quilmes beer if you ever get a chance, it's a treat! Right now, Joe is back at the hostel, Aaron went to Chile and will cut back to San Martin de Los Andes tomorrow (40km south), and Markus is still in Chile somewhere catching up to us. I am hungry, haha, so time to go!