The roads lately have been quite difficult. There are few services between towns and I think it's been 3 days since I've had a proper shower with few perhaps a week to go before the next opportunity. We have to catch a ferry in Villa O'Higgins on Saturday, or we wait a week, which is not an option. After the ferry, load up on donkey or horse and walk south toward Mt. Fitz Roy. This is going to be a highlight of the trip, so I'm getting more excited by the day even though my butt thinks the opposite.
Along the way, there is maybe one place to get food in the 230km between here (Cochrane) and O'Higgins. After I get off this computer, I'm off to the supermarket to stock up. At least our only expense is food since we ride until 830pm and stop wherever we may be at the time.
The lake route along Lago General Carrera was some of the most stunning scenery of the trip so far, there really isn't anything I could compare it to. However, at the same time it was a series of useless climbs. Let me define: travel say 50km in which the elevation is the same at the end as it was in the beginning, but climb a total of 1200+ meters during the ride. That is what I call useless climbing, up and down, up and down. When combined with loose gravel, steep roads, and 30(?more?) kmph headwinds in which I struggle at 4 kmph uphill sometimes pushing the bike because the roads are unridable so, well, it's not the easiest road. I actually had my first legitimate crash too while descending one road, but thankfully I unclipped and landing on my feet running down the hill while my bike, bags rather, didn't fare as well.
And by the way, the Chilean civil engineers and maintenance workers responsible for the roads can go screw themselves along with the SUV and truck drivers who drive too fast and create the shit in the road in the first place.
Ok, I forgot about the other things I wanted to mention. We're still in a rush to push 70-80km per day, which means another 50-60 to go with who knows how many useless climbs ahead.
I appreciate everyone's comments so far and encouragement, it helps me along this difficult section.
26 February 2008
22 February 2008
Winds, Glaciers, and Israeli Hitchhikers
Apologies for not updating sooner, more often, and with pictures this time. Unfortunately, time is something that is a precious commodity down here, there's always too much to do and not enough waking hours to do it in.
We are traveling through Patagonia, a region full of wet jungles, more snow-capped mountains with the occasional glacier, and plenty of small and large falls that we drink from (the water really is delicious). There are fjords like in Norway, and there isn't a single moment in which my neck isn't contorted in some way to look up or behind me at the mountains, or down at the nasty ripio, haha.
I'm writing right now from Coyhaique, which is the capital of the region. We hope to be in Villa O'Higgins on Feb 29, so we can take a ferry south (the road ends there) on Mar 1. Upon exiting the ferry, we load up the gear on horses and traverse a difficult 20km section of land (didn't feel like pushing the bike for 5 hrs like other bikers we've met going north have done).
I also mention the Israelis because there are tons of them down here, traveling after their military service. In every town and on the road in between, we find multiple groups, not just multiple people. It really is surprising, but at least they know English so we can talk to them!
The next few days should be good weather for us, so the traveling will be more or less ok, Carretera Austral ripio aside, of course. If anyone has a chance, I would highly recommend renting a truck (note: not a car) and traveling south on the Carretera Austral.
I'm 3 min late getting to the other riding partners, so gotta run!
We are traveling through Patagonia, a region full of wet jungles, more snow-capped mountains with the occasional glacier, and plenty of small and large falls that we drink from (the water really is delicious). There are fjords like in Norway, and there isn't a single moment in which my neck isn't contorted in some way to look up or behind me at the mountains, or down at the nasty ripio, haha.
I'm writing right now from Coyhaique, which is the capital of the region. We hope to be in Villa O'Higgins on Feb 29, so we can take a ferry south (the road ends there) on Mar 1. Upon exiting the ferry, we load up the gear on horses and traverse a difficult 20km section of land (didn't feel like pushing the bike for 5 hrs like other bikers we've met going north have done).
I also mention the Israelis because there are tons of them down here, traveling after their military service. In every town and on the road in between, we find multiple groups, not just multiple people. It really is surprising, but at least they know English so we can talk to them!
The next few days should be good weather for us, so the traveling will be more or less ok, Carretera Austral ripio aside, of course. If anyone has a chance, I would highly recommend renting a truck (note: not a car) and traveling south on the Carretera Austral.
I'm 3 min late getting to the other riding partners, so gotta run!
09 February 2008
Puerto Montt and Volcan Calbuco
Puerto Montt -
Our time spent in Puerto Montt has been quite relaxing, and more and more I've started to open up to the city. The first day Markus and I wandered around town to find, among other things, the ferry docks to inquire about a ticket down to Chaiten. Little did we know that we would have to wait until the following week to get a ticket! However, all was not lost since we have to wait anyway for the hub to come from the United States. As of now, it has left Santiago, hopefully to arrive on Monday.
In our little walkabout, we found the local artisan section of town 3km out from the city center. Markus there was able to get a sweet leather shoulder bag for his SLR digital camera, something he'd been looking for since the trip began. Just past that section was the local fish market, woohoo!! We planned to cook a salmon dinner that night. Imagine, 1kg of salmon filet for $3, can't beat that price! I'm definitely warming up to this town. Just after dinner, we signed up for a hike to the top of Volcano Calbuco. Little did I know what I was getting myself into..
.
Our guide, Pato, picked us up at 8am the following morning. Juan, an artist who created the copper depiction of a biblical scene found at the top of the cathedral in town, later joined us when we were stocking up on food for the day at the nearby supermarket. The drive out of town was our first experience with the Carretera Austral, not too bad given that it was a paved section. About 45 minutes later, much of it on ripio, we arrived at the base of the climb. I wondered why they needed helipad markings on the main parking lot.
For the most part, I'll let the pictures show what it was like. The roundtrip was 22km, almost all of it a climb or a descent on foot. At times, we hiked through a forest with some trees over 2000 years old. At times, we were scrambling up volcanic rock that was slipping under our feet. At one point, we donned climbing harnesses and ropes to scale one small section. We tried to ski with our shoes alone in the snow that was remaining at the top of the volcano. The meltwater was delicious right from the source. And of course, boys will be boys, we tossed large rocks and small boulders down the cliff and watched them roll down the snow-covered slopes below (there was nobody down there, yes we checked). We were a little behind schedule because of the extended breaks, and so at the end we got caught hiking in the night through the forest. All in all, nobody was hurt, thankfully, and of course it was an incredible experience. I wish I will be in the shape Juan was when I'm 61. Right now, two days after the hike, I'm still nearly limping because my legs are still so sore. The sad part, I don't know what % of Americans would be able to do something like this, but I hope that figure will increase in the coming decades.
Our time spent in Puerto Montt has been quite relaxing, and more and more I've started to open up to the city. The first day Markus and I wandered around town to find, among other things, the ferry docks to inquire about a ticket down to Chaiten. Little did we know that we would have to wait until the following week to get a ticket! However, all was not lost since we have to wait anyway for the hub to come from the United States. As of now, it has left Santiago, hopefully to arrive on Monday.
In our little walkabout, we found the local artisan section of town 3km out from the city center. Markus there was able to get a sweet leather shoulder bag for his SLR digital camera, something he'd been looking for since the trip began. Just past that section was the local fish market, woohoo!! We planned to cook a salmon dinner that night. Imagine, 1kg of salmon filet for $3, can't beat that price! I'm definitely warming up to this town. Just after dinner, we signed up for a hike to the top of Volcano Calbuco. Little did I know what I was getting myself into..
.Our guide, Pato, picked us up at 8am the following morning. Juan, an artist who created the copper depiction of a biblical scene found at the top of the cathedral in town, later joined us when we were stocking up on food for the day at the nearby supermarket. The drive out of town was our first experience with the Carretera Austral, not too bad given that it was a paved section. About 45 minutes later, much of it on ripio, we arrived at the base of the climb. I wondered why they needed helipad markings on the main parking lot.
For the most part, I'll let the pictures show what it was like. The roundtrip was 22km, almost all of it a climb or a descent on foot. At times, we hiked through a forest with some trees over 2000 years old. At times, we were scrambling up volcanic rock that was slipping under our feet. At one point, we donned climbing harnesses and ropes to scale one small section. We tried to ski with our shoes alone in the snow that was remaining at the top of the volcano. The meltwater was delicious right from the source. And of course, boys will be boys, we tossed large rocks and small boulders down the cliff and watched them roll down the snow-covered slopes below (there was nobody down there, yes we checked). We were a little behind schedule because of the extended breaks, and so at the end we got caught hiking in the night through the forest. All in all, nobody was hurt, thankfully, and of course it was an incredible experience. I wish I will be in the shape Juan was when I'm 61. Right now, two days after the hike, I'm still nearly limping because my legs are still so sore. The sad part, I don't know what % of Americans would be able to do something like this, but I hope that figure will increase in the coming decades.
The Cat 5 Problem
Villa Agostura, Argentina to Puerto Montt, Chile -
Among the reasons why Joe and Aaron chose to continue south through Argentina was because Chile is more expensive. However, it soon became apparent to me why at least I think I made the right decision to cross into Chile toward Puerto Montt. Markus and I were only able to make it to the border before it was too late to cross through Chilean customs, so we found a tiny lake to camp at within the Puyehue National Park. 
Markus, with his million and one auxillary items packed away, pulled out a diving mask and we both swam looking for and finding plenty of fish. At dusk around the lake, there must have been two dozen fish jumping out of the water every minute! (the ripples are from the fish) It really was an incredible and peaceful scene, I couldn't help but think of my dad who would love to put a fishing line, or three, into the water. Hell, I wish I had a hook and line since bread tossed from our dinner spot on the lake was gobbled up in less than a minute. 
The next morning we descended the rest of the bajada (downhill) toward the aduana (customs). No more than 2km past, break time! There were some small, but beautiful falls to stop by and take some pictures. Had we not been en route to the natural hot springs and if it weren't so early in the day, I would have taken a swim. The tabanas were as nasty as ever, though, and with a bamboo stick I was actually able to bat 3 out of the air swinging like Yoda in Attack of the Clones Star Wars movie. I stopped when I realized I have nothing on Yoda, missed the tabana I was going after, and hit my own leg breaking the stick in the process. I still have that mark almost a week later... 
Another thing I've learned is to never ask the locals about road conditions. They ride in cars, and thus they lie. It's not worth the frustration to ask and expect an easy ride. The 4km detour off the main road to the hot springs with some climbs and some downhills according to a hotel guard at the bottom turned into a solid 3.5km climb with two tiny downhills. However, it was a worthy detour as the hot springs were everything they promised to be and more. Between the hot dog italiano (with guacamole and tomatoes on top, yeah, don't ask) the soaks in the hot
yet relaxing thermal waters, and the near freezing river water, I had enough energy and motivation to last through the end of the remaining day.
yet relaxing thermal waters, and the near freezing river water, I had enough energy and motivation to last through the end of the remaining day.
As I said before, the locals lie. The 45km ripio road to Lake Llanquihue turned into an minor but endless climb. The town we expected with campsites half-way through, Rupanco, didn't exactly exist either in the capacity that we expected. I had bought 6 eggs for breakfast, so it meant I had to stand to protect them in my backpack for the entire way until a gracious familly let us camp in their fenced-off grass that night near Rupanco proper. I also forgot to mention my near Cat 4 mishap, but I found the parts of my derrailleur that had fallen apart onto the ripio. Although we had no showers, the water and tall grass meant I could look forward to a good night of sleep, those 6 eggs that emerged unscathed, and the volcanoes that were starting to show themselves. 
The rest of the ripio the following morning ended earlier than expected. For the first time of the trip, it was a cloudy day! Clouds mean cooler weather which means a less sweaty ride. It did feel in a way like the middle of Siberia with the desolate road cutting through a timber forest that served as a path for this Swiss vehicle that looked like it could withstand a nuclear blast and keep on trekking with the full-size BMW motorcycle easily strapped to its back. I have no guesses to offer as to where the said vehicle came from, except for perhaps
military surplus. Anyway, it disappeared into a gigantic dust cloud leaving us pondering what lies ahead. I sometimes wished that my bike wasn't the only one failing here and there, but I really just wish none of us had to deal with anything. Inevitably, on a trip like this, with the ripio we are experiencing, challenges are to be expected.
military surplus. Anyway, it disappeared into a gigantic dust cloud leaving us pondering what lies ahead. I sometimes wished that my bike wasn't the only one failing here and there, but I really just wish none of us had to deal with anything. Inevitably, on a trip like this, with the ripio we are experiencing, challenges are to be expected.
When we reached the pavement, Markus noticed the hub of his rear wheel broke. That's it, that's the Cat 5
I hoped to never see. The bike was rideable, but not on ripio, and not for long for that matter with the broken hub and 5 or so spokes now useless. We would head toward Puerto Octay to call Phil Wood and have a hub shipped to Chile ASAP. Markus redistributed most of his pannier weight to the rear pannier bags now attached to the front racks, and I took his backpack and solar panel (I told you he has everything) on my rear. Before limping off, we noticed the commanding Volcano Osorno directly behind us on the road toward Puerto Octay.
Over the next few days, it we would ride along the western edge of Lake Llanquihue, opposite to Osorno. We camped the night at a site in Frutillar, and ate lunch the next day in Llanquihue.
I hoped to never see. The bike was rideable, but not on ripio, and not for long for that matter with the broken hub and 5 or so spokes now useless. We would head toward Puerto Octay to call Phil Wood and have a hub shipped to Chile ASAP. Markus redistributed most of his pannier weight to the rear pannier bags now attached to the front racks, and I took his backpack and solar panel (I told you he has everything) on my rear. Before limping off, we noticed the commanding Volcano Osorno directly behind us on the road toward Puerto Octay.
Over the next few days, it we would ride along the western edge of Lake Llanquihue, opposite to Osorno. We camped the night at a site in Frutillar, and ate lunch the next day in Llanquihue.
The headwinds were very strong the whole way to Puerto Montt, but they were especially noticable when Markus and I rode on Ruta 5, the PanAmerican Highway. All it really meant was that it would take close to 3 hours to get to Puerto Montt instead of 1.5 hours had the winds been at our backs. Markus wanted to stop by Puerto Varas, however, so I followed despite the 3km descent down to the port city on the southern tip of Lake Llanquihue. There we met Elicia and Andy from Portland, Oregon, who are writing for a web magazine and also traveling south like us. Find their blog here in which they share their thoughts on the same region we are passing through. <http://www.wendmagazine.com/elicia-andy/>.
The town of Puerto Varas proved to be a worthwhile stop with its situation right on the lake and a pretty cool business district downtown. I was somewhat, but not really, surprised to see some signs in English. Quite a few more Chileans speak English than did their Argentinian counterparts. Anyway, we asked about routes to Puerto Montt and instead of riding on Ruta 5 again, we were able to take a pretty flowing country road south, albeit with more hills and traffic than Ruta 5 (traffic that comes closer to us that is), but more stimulating nonetheless.
My first impressions of Puerto Montt is that I've finally reached a city once again, outside of Buenos Aires. Puerto Montt itself is situation on the edge of the water, a couple hundred meters from the surrounding countryside. Coincidentally, it's also where I felt least safe on the trip in the sense that I did not want to leave my bike attached to anything outside. We finally found just after sundown the Hostel Don Teo to where the Phil Wood hub was shipped, and what I would call my home base for the next few days just across from the water front.
Markus and I ate a gigantic plate of french fries, diced hot dog, steak, tomatoes, avocado, pickles, onions, and maybe one or two other things I forgot. On the menu it said for 2 people, but thinking we could finish a 2-person portion, Markus and I eached ordered one. This gave our waitress, Vanessa, a laugh because she didn't think we could indeed finish it and only put in the order for one initially. Well, she was right. The plate was more like for 3 or 4 people, and so we settled on that, beer, and a durazno (peach) drink for dessert. A shower and a bed were certainly welcomed that night.
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