As an addendum to the previous post, I wanted to give a little update and clarify a few things. First of all, when I speak anything bad about Bolivia, it is specifically with respect to the harsh terrain this country occupies, cold and barren elevation only. The people here couldn't be more amiable. Walking down the street, the disparity between myself and the indegenous population is vast with respect to economics and such. However, I feel humbled by the presence of these people whose wrinkled faces reveal a past laden with difficulties I can only begin to understand, or in whose youth lies a similar fate. I don't think things have changed much in the past couple hundred years, Jeep tours and Internet access for tourists aside, nor will it change in the near future. With admiration, I confess to enjoy walking around the colorful markets much more than your typical grocery store that has the latest imports from around the world. I am amazed at when the vendors close shop for siesta or another reason, they simply drape a cloth over their products, though even some fruits can be seen sticking out at the sides. There seems to be no culture of theft and here, in one of the poorest countries in the Western Hemisphere, I feel safer than in a parking lot back in the US.
With that said, Bolivia the land claimed another point in its match against the cyclists. Gudrun was throwing up last night and is bedridden today as well. Unbelievable...same symptoms: shivers, nausea, lack of appetite and strength, etc. I had a wonderful pizza with her last night while Jan Willem stayed in bed, so let's see. If everything goes according to schedule based on my recovery, Jan Willem will be dining on fine American-made pizza tomorrow night (the owner from western MA moved here after marrying a Bolivian woman), while Gudrun should be eating with us again on Saturday. Markus is expected by then, so a celebration it shall be in honor of recovery and a point for the cyclists!! I just hope I'm not counting eggs before they hatch, eh?
PS - I'm spending about half the day wandering around the city now, feeling much better. Today I'll go to the museum where they have skulls, artifacts, mummies, and explain the process of mummification. Might come in handy someday, who knows? Then I think Thursday, I'll venture on the bicycle for a few hours into the Salar de Uyuni to scout the route, terrain, etc. Let's just hope the reflection off the salt doesn't burn a hole in my retina, that'd be the last thing I need.
20 May 2008
19 May 2008
Bolivia - 2 vs Cyclists - 0
When we left San Pedro de Atacama, Chile, a couple days ago, I was expecting to be on the road for 10 days before reaching Uyuni, Bolivia. Nevertheless, here I am now in Uyuni having arrived two nights ago on Saturday. Why so soon? Because I abandoned the ride, put my bike on top of a Jeep, got inside, and was driven here. Why did I abandon the ride? Because I fell sick; coughing, chest pains from the coughing, generally sore body, and weakness sum up the symptoms that I had. How did I become sick? Have you ever camped outside at -20C at 14,000ft in which ice was caked onto the outside of your sleeping bag in the morning? Believe me, not fun. One point for Bolivia.
On the first day out of San Pedro, the road just went up. I was able to average about 7kmph in the beginning, but that soon dropped to 6kmph and then toward the end of the day 5kmph. We heard going down, bikers could average 65kmph. Like I said, the road went up. And then we crossed into Bolivia, my undoing...
Our first campsite in Bolivia, my nemesis, was inbetween Laguna Blanca and Laguna Verde (literally white and green lagoons, respectively) that are basically touching. The Laguna Verde, however, with its green hue and location at the base of Volcan Licancabur, is the more famous of the two and represents a destination for the Jeep tours that travel through SW Bolivia. Pictures to come later, but it really is a spectacular sight if you don't have to sleep outside. In the morning, I debated whether or not to head back into Chile and take a Jeep tour from there to Uyuni, or sally on and see how I fare. Sally on I did!
Bad choice, because it was clear that I felt like shit, had no appetite, and seriously questioned whether or not I could finish the ride when I was pushing the bike up the 15,000ft pass that day for the last kilometer or so due to lack of strength. Thankfully the downhill was gradual and quite long, which meant all I had to do was battle with the washboard and the sand on the 'road'. We did see the Rocks of Dali (yes, formation created by the artist), which was quite amazing to behold coming over the pass.
Small tangent here, Bolivian 'roads' in this area are not like any normal roads by any means. There are simple tracks that previous vehicles have traveled on, some better worn that others, but often 2, 3, and at times up to 6 tracks parallel to each other going in the same direction. There are no road signs, so if the main path loops around and there presents an opportunity to take a shortcut through a ROCK field (between the side of your fist and your head), drivers will take it! (they usually lead in the same direction anyway). Couple in the deep sand at times, and you can kiss your vehicle goodbye unless it is a Jeep, truck, or a Dakar-grade ride (we cyclists try!).
So by the time I get to the thermal hot springs that evening, I have made up my mind to jump on the first jeep out of there. The cafeteria on location let us sleep inside on the floor, and even built a bed so I could try to rest comfortably (cost: 15 Bolivianos each or just over $2, typical of Bolivian accomodations). It took about 20 minutes under 4 covers to stop shivering, but after that I was much better. Markus, Jan Willem, and Gudrun went into the hot spring for 1.5hrs after dinner, which I skipped, and I simply tried my best to stay hydrated with the various teas and even mate de coca that was brought to me. Hell, at least I was warm!!
Note: mate de coca is basically tea from coca leaves, it's the de facto national drink of Bolivia served at all times of day, notably breakfast. And no, there is absolutely no euphoric or any other effect that I felt from the coca leaves.
In the morning, we identified a Jeep tour that would take me to Uyuni, but after it went to the Laguna Verde first during which time the others waited with me before started their climb to the 4950m pass or so (15500ft???). The Jeep was late, they left, but it eventually showed up and I was glowing once again with the prospect of a hot shower, and a real bed to rest in for the next few days.
The trip took 7.5hrs, the 'road' was as described above, but I was enjoying every shock absorbed by the Jeep's suspension that I did not have to feel directly for a change. Along the way, I was very concerned for my friends seeing what they would have to deal with in the coming week, but at least there were dozens of tours going by every day should they need help. I also was thinking thankfully Markus has and uses his GPS with the waypoints provided by a previous cyclist. We ate lunch at the Laguna Colorado, a crimson-colored lagoon flush with flamingos. It was unlike anything I have seen before, and luckily I was able to palate my first meal in 24hrs, a simple salad with some rice. I felt up for some cookies as well, they were enjoyed by everyone inside the Jeep.
By the time I found a hotel in Uyuni that had room, it was dark, getting cold, I was tired, and I didn't care about the $25 room so long as I could rest in peace. After checking out, I went to an internet cafe and met up with...who else, but Joe!! What a surprise, last time I saw him was in Ushuaia. I gave him the gossip, and he told me to go to his hostal where there was heat in the rooms at night. I did that, walked onto the streets to buy some bananas and apples, came back to get settled in bed and cracked open ¨The Broker¨ by John Grisham. About 150pgs in, Joe comes knocking on my door. ¨You have friends¨What? Jan Willem and Gudrun are here, JW is sick with the same bug that I got, but he was also throwing up earlier in the morning so they took a Jeep up to Uyuni.
Bolivia-2
Cyclists-0
Shit!
Where is Markus? Still riding, alone. I don't think it's the best idea, but there are always Jeeps. I just hope he scores one point for the cyclists! His ETA is Friday, we'll see about that...
Now, I still spend most of the day inside only venturing out for food or to write this, for example. The rest of the time I am just resting in bed, reading or cleaning some gear such as my stove. I have to find a new book, though, having started and finished The Broker while listening to, to my amusement, the ubiquitous futbol (that's soccer in the US) announcers' random outbursts of GOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOL *gasp* OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOL from the TV downstairs every so often. Ah what a place Bolivia is, and South America for that matter.
Right now I'm getting quite hungry, so have to go. Joe left today with a group of 6 cyclists or so into the Salar de Uyuni, Jan Willem is still in bed, and I hope Markus is still healthy and en route.
Hasta luego!
On the first day out of San Pedro, the road just went up. I was able to average about 7kmph in the beginning, but that soon dropped to 6kmph and then toward the end of the day 5kmph. We heard going down, bikers could average 65kmph. Like I said, the road went up. And then we crossed into Bolivia, my undoing...
Our first campsite in Bolivia, my nemesis, was inbetween Laguna Blanca and Laguna Verde (literally white and green lagoons, respectively) that are basically touching. The Laguna Verde, however, with its green hue and location at the base of Volcan Licancabur, is the more famous of the two and represents a destination for the Jeep tours that travel through SW Bolivia. Pictures to come later, but it really is a spectacular sight if you don't have to sleep outside. In the morning, I debated whether or not to head back into Chile and take a Jeep tour from there to Uyuni, or sally on and see how I fare. Sally on I did!
Bad choice, because it was clear that I felt like shit, had no appetite, and seriously questioned whether or not I could finish the ride when I was pushing the bike up the 15,000ft pass that day for the last kilometer or so due to lack of strength. Thankfully the downhill was gradual and quite long, which meant all I had to do was battle with the washboard and the sand on the 'road'. We did see the Rocks of Dali (yes, formation created by the artist), which was quite amazing to behold coming over the pass.
Small tangent here, Bolivian 'roads' in this area are not like any normal roads by any means. There are simple tracks that previous vehicles have traveled on, some better worn that others, but often 2, 3, and at times up to 6 tracks parallel to each other going in the same direction. There are no road signs, so if the main path loops around and there presents an opportunity to take a shortcut through a ROCK field (between the side of your fist and your head), drivers will take it! (they usually lead in the same direction anyway). Couple in the deep sand at times, and you can kiss your vehicle goodbye unless it is a Jeep, truck, or a Dakar-grade ride (we cyclists try!).
So by the time I get to the thermal hot springs that evening, I have made up my mind to jump on the first jeep out of there. The cafeteria on location let us sleep inside on the floor, and even built a bed so I could try to rest comfortably (cost: 15 Bolivianos each or just over $2, typical of Bolivian accomodations). It took about 20 minutes under 4 covers to stop shivering, but after that I was much better. Markus, Jan Willem, and Gudrun went into the hot spring for 1.5hrs after dinner, which I skipped, and I simply tried my best to stay hydrated with the various teas and even mate de coca that was brought to me. Hell, at least I was warm!!
Note: mate de coca is basically tea from coca leaves, it's the de facto national drink of Bolivia served at all times of day, notably breakfast. And no, there is absolutely no euphoric or any other effect that I felt from the coca leaves.
In the morning, we identified a Jeep tour that would take me to Uyuni, but after it went to the Laguna Verde first during which time the others waited with me before started their climb to the 4950m pass or so (15500ft???). The Jeep was late, they left, but it eventually showed up and I was glowing once again with the prospect of a hot shower, and a real bed to rest in for the next few days.
The trip took 7.5hrs, the 'road' was as described above, but I was enjoying every shock absorbed by the Jeep's suspension that I did not have to feel directly for a change. Along the way, I was very concerned for my friends seeing what they would have to deal with in the coming week, but at least there were dozens of tours going by every day should they need help. I also was thinking thankfully Markus has and uses his GPS with the waypoints provided by a previous cyclist. We ate lunch at the Laguna Colorado, a crimson-colored lagoon flush with flamingos. It was unlike anything I have seen before, and luckily I was able to palate my first meal in 24hrs, a simple salad with some rice. I felt up for some cookies as well, they were enjoyed by everyone inside the Jeep.
By the time I found a hotel in Uyuni that had room, it was dark, getting cold, I was tired, and I didn't care about the $25 room so long as I could rest in peace. After checking out, I went to an internet cafe and met up with...who else, but Joe!! What a surprise, last time I saw him was in Ushuaia. I gave him the gossip, and he told me to go to his hostal where there was heat in the rooms at night. I did that, walked onto the streets to buy some bananas and apples, came back to get settled in bed and cracked open ¨The Broker¨ by John Grisham. About 150pgs in, Joe comes knocking on my door. ¨You have friends¨What? Jan Willem and Gudrun are here, JW is sick with the same bug that I got, but he was also throwing up earlier in the morning so they took a Jeep up to Uyuni.
Bolivia-2
Cyclists-0
Shit!
Where is Markus? Still riding, alone. I don't think it's the best idea, but there are always Jeeps. I just hope he scores one point for the cyclists! His ETA is Friday, we'll see about that...
Now, I still spend most of the day inside only venturing out for food or to write this, for example. The rest of the time I am just resting in bed, reading or cleaning some gear such as my stove. I have to find a new book, though, having started and finished The Broker while listening to, to my amusement, the ubiquitous futbol (that's soccer in the US) announcers' random outbursts of GOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOL *gasp* OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOL from the TV downstairs every so often. Ah what a place Bolivia is, and South America for that matter.
Right now I'm getting quite hungry, so have to go. Joe left today with a group of 6 cyclists or so into the Salar de Uyuni, Jan Willem is still in bed, and I hope Markus is still healthy and en route.
Hasta luego!
13 May 2008
Onward to Bolivia!
This will be my final update for some time after uploading photos since Iguazu Falls. Markus and I will be traveling with our Dutch friends, Jan Willem and Gudrun, from Chile to Uyuni in Bolivia. We'll be past 4000m almost the entire time while en route to the Salar de Uyuni (largest salt flat in the world), passing by places like the Laguna Verde and Laguna Colorado. While there are refugios to sleep in and points of water on the way, we will still have to carry food for 10 days as there aren't really any towns with kiosks or supermarkets. In any case, the terrain will be very much like the pictures from Paso de Sico and probably more spectacular. I'm quite excited, but it will be nearly 2 weeks before I'll be able to come online again. In the meantime, enjoy the photos and check out Markus' blog for additional posts tonight. Ciao till later!!
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